From Cellar to Port
THE RIALTO BRIDGE FROM THE RIVA DEL VIN
Michele Marieschi (1710-1743)
1740/43
The Hermitage, ST Petersburg, Russia
Before the rise of the railways, the wine trade often developed and operated from maritime ports. Venice played an important role in the growth of European wine; the city had a large part to play in terms of trade, but also in wine production – the Riva del Vin (‘wine quay’) still runs alongside the Grand Canal. In the thirteenth century, the Serenissime imported and re-exported large quantities of Greek wine from Malvosia (Monemvasia), on the south-east coast of Peloponnese. This region produced a strong, sweet wine with the taste of muscat, known for aging well, which was very appreciated at the time.
Some Venetians would even move to Greece, specifically Rhodes, to grow the vines. Venetian trade included many different wines, such as Cyprian wine, liquorish and well-reputed; Crete was also a good source of sweet, full-bodied wines, which fetched a price well above the average, even in the fourteenth century! They also planted vineyards along the Dalmatian Coast, from Trieste to the Albanian border, in the Imola, Ancon and Verona regions.
VINIFICATION AND WINE AGEING
THE DESCENT TO THE CELLAR Bartholomeus Pons, 1537 - Städel Museum, Francfort, Germany / 1
CAVE INTERIOR WITH WINE BARRELS, NEAR SAUMUR Joseph Mallord William Turner, 1826/28 - Tate, Londres
MONK IN A RUIN WHICH HAS BEEN MADE INTO A WINE CELLAR Alexander Lauréus, 1823 - Finnish National Gallery, Helsinki, Finland
COOPER TIGHTENING STAVES ON A BARREL (TONNELIER CERCLANT UN TONNEAU) J -F. Millet, 1848/52 - Mus. of Fine Arts, Boston, MA, United States
WINE PRESSES, HOTEL DE LA COURONNE IN CRESSIER, SWITZERLAND Gustave Jeanneret, 1897? - Private collection
MEN OPERATING THE WINE PRESS (LES PRESSUREURS) Gustave Jeanneret, 1887 - Wine Museum, Chateau de Boudry, Switzerland
PRESSING THE GRAPES John Singer Sargent, ca. 1882 - Private collection
WINEMAKER (VIGNERON) Hector Hanoteau, 1850 - Private collection
MONK TESTING WINE Antonio Casanova y Estorach, ca. 1886 - Brooklyn Museum, New York
> Click on the icons for a closer look at the artworks
1. Bartholomeus Pons, originally from Haarlem, was very active in the Burgundy and Champagne regions. In 1537, he painted this small genre scene, showing three man unloading barrels into a cellar (a mooring post in the foreground shows the coat of arms of the Dinteville family, his Burgundy patrons). This must be part of a larger painting, perhaps an altarpiece dedicated to St Vincent, patron saint of wine-growers and a venerated figure in the Burgundy region.
TRADE DEVELOPED AND OPERATED FROM MARITIME SEA AND RIVER PORTS
WINE MERCHANTS AND TASTER IN DORDRECHT Jan Van Goyen, 1651 - Musée de Picardie, Amiens, France / 1
GOVERNORS OF THE WINE MERCHANT'S GUILD OF AMSTERDAM Ferdinand Bol, 1663 - Alte Pinakothek, Munich, Germany / 2
THE PORT OF RIPETTA, ROME (detail) Gaspar Van Wittel called Vantivelli, ca. 1720 - Private collection
VENICE LAGOON, CAPRICCIO Francesco Guardi, ca. 1775/80? - Private collection
VIEW OF PORT OF MARSEILLE INSIDE (INTÉRIEUR DU PORT DE MARSEILLE) Joseph Vernet, 1754 - Musée de la Marine, Paris / 5
FIRST VIEW OF THE PORT OF TOULON (PREMIÈRE VUE DU PORT DE TOULON) Claude-Joseph Vernet, 1755 - Musée de la Marine, Paris / 6
VIEW OF PORT OF ROCHEFORT, FROM THE ARSENAL OF COLONIES (detail) Joseph Vernet, 1762 - Musée national de la Marine, Paris
VIEW OF THE PORT OF LA ROCHELLE (VUE DU PORT DE LA ROCHELLE) Claude-Joseph Vernet, 1762 - Musée de la Marine, Paris / 8
VIEW OF THE PORT OF LA ROCHELLE (VUE DU PORT DE LA ROCHELLE) Camille Corot, 1851 - Yale University Art Gallery, New Haven, CT, United States
PANORAMIC VIEW OF TOURS IN 1787 (VUE PANORAMIQUE DE TOURS) Pierre-Antoine Demachy, ca. 1787 - Musée des Beaux-arts, Tours, France / 10
COPENHAGEN HARBOR BY MOONLIGHT Johan Christian Dahl, 1846 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
CITY OF PORTO IN 1817 Henry l'Evêque, 1817 - Biblioteca Nacional de Portugal, Lisbon
VUE ANIMÉE DU QUAI SAINT PIERRE, CANNES Henri Zuber, 1882, Aquarelle - Collection particulière
MARSEILLE, VIEUX PORT AUX TONNEAUX Charles Camoin, c. 1905 - Musée des Beaux-arts, Gelsenkirchen, Allemagne
PORT OF ROUEN, OFF-LOADING AND LOADING, WOOD (and Wine) Camille Pissarro, 1898 - Clark Institute, Williamstown, MA, United States / 15
STEAMBOATS IN THE PORT OF Rouen Camille Pissarro, 1896 - The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
LE 14 JUILLET À ROUEN Othon Friesz, 1906 - Collection particulière
PORT DE ROUEN Pierre Letrividec, 1935/37 - Collection particulière / 18
> Discover the works in their entirety by clicking on the thumbnails
1. In Wine merchants and taster , "the scene seems to be on a quay in Dordrecht: the monumental gate visible on the left recalls one of those in the city, even if the rest of the urban landscape does not correspond precisely to this city.In the center stand, in front of aligned barrels, three men, certainly merchants, standing in front of a horseman on his horse, this one - undoubtedly a taster - drinks a glass of wine. On the left, a man is drawing the contents of a barrel; at his side, a dog is lapping up a tub. The episode would therefore feature a scene of checking goods. Around the central group, the life of the port unfolds: boats docking, men busying themselves around a crane or barrels, figures going about their domestic chores (a tent and housewives seem to designate, on the left, a market).
At the back, on the right, beyond a large expanse of water, stands the steeple of a village. Unanimously recognized as a particularly important painting by van Goyen, this panel illustrates one of the master's favorite fields: the animated landscape" (Source: Notice by Matthieu Pinette, Base Joconde). In the 17th century, the Dutch exercised an undeniable supremacy on world maritime trade. They rationalize transport, optimize journeys, create counters, adapt supply to demand and thus contribute to the development of certain wine-growing territories, such as that which extends from the Nantes region to Bayonne The Dutch, who were the first to distribute anonymous wines, import and export huge quantities of wine, especially white, whatever their quality and vintage.
2. The Governors of the Amsterdam Wine Merchants' Guild pose full length and "hold a book or papers, brandish the attributes of their office (the pipette used to pour the wine drawn from the barrel), display a distracted air. Frozen, encased in their quasi-cassock, molded in the wax of the Grévin museum” (source: La Boîte à images, lemonde.fr).
5. The 18th century was marked by the growth of maritime trade. The Port of Marseille , like those of Toulon, La Rochelle and Bordeaux, belongs to the series of ports in France, ordered by Louis XV in Vernet who was asked to represent the activities specific to the region. Marine painting was an instrument used by power to stage itself, to position France as a maritime nation, to illustrate the greatness of the country in its successes and progress, to arouse national pride. True witnesses of the time, these paintings are teeming with characters, details and fulfill their mission well. Marseille, which made up for the demographic losses of the plague of 1720, was, along with Bordeaux, one of the two major ports for French foreign trade. The barrels here bear witness to Marseille's cabotage activity with the Mediterranean basin.
6. The same is true for Le Port de Toulon .
8. In his Vue du port de La Rochelle , Vernet does not hesitate to put barrels in the foreground when La Rochelle was supplanted by Bordeaux for the wine trade and by Saintes for that of the eaux-de-vie produced in the region. region of Cognac (after having been, from the 12th to the 15th century, the first port for the export of wines in Flanders, in Bruges in particular). On the other hand, La Rochelle in the 18th century had become, along with Nantes and Bordeaux, one of the first "slave ports" in France, actively participating in the triangular trade, organized slave trade (in France, since the end of the 16th century) around exchanges between Europe, Africa and the Americas. The ships carried in their holds textiles, weapons, novelties,... and wine, as well as spirits!
10. The river ports, like Tours here, have also exercised a strong attraction on the vineyard. Prior to the railroads, the development of commercial vineyards was predicated on nearby seaports and navigable rivers. The Loire shipping industry has played a decisive role in the marketing of wine, and therefore in the very existence of the vineyard. At the end of the 18th century, it extended along the Loire like a long ribbon. When Demachy painted this Panoramic View of Tours in 1787, the city was booming.
A great animation reigns on the river, then navigable, and the traffic is important. Flat-bottomed boats, barges, carry barrels. The white wines of the Loire Valley are mainly intended for export via Nantes and destined for Northern Europe, while the red wines are sent to Orléans and from there to Paris, as is the case here. (this is attested by the presence of the Saint Gatien cathedral on the left bank). The prevailing wind from the west made it possible to go up the Loire without any towing as far as Orléans. From there, they returned loaded with products related to the establishment of processing industries along the river; from Nantes, they returned laden with colonial products (sugar, spices, coffee, cocoa, cotton, indigo, etc.).
15. Rouen - like Bordeaux, Nantes and Porto, is at the junction of river traffic and maritime traffic. In the Middle Ages, and particularly from the 10th to the 15th centuries, its port could thus have been a major player in the wine trade between the countries of the Seine and the British Isles. The merchants of Rouen met there the formidable competition of Cologne which, with the Rhine and the North Sea, also benefited from this double identity of sea and river port.
The "wines of France", from Île de France and Auxerre, arrived in Rouen on large river barges, some of which could carry up to one hundred barrels, or even one hundred and eighty (source: History of the vine and wine in France: From its origins to the 19th century , Roger Dion, CNRS Editions, 2010).
18. The traffic attracts to Rouen products intended for the Paris conurbation, such as wines from Algeria. Before the war, Algeria exported nearly 60% of its exports there, while the balance passed through the Mediterranean ports, headed by that of Sète. They had a whole flotilla of tankers. To this, it should be added that rail communications between Sète and Paris were already very fast (23 hours). it will allow them to transport the wines from Algeria to Paris in five to six days. Rouen having been slow to commission new units equipped with tanks, only 30% of the tonnage exported was sent there (source: René Streiff, Le Port de Rouen , L'Information Géographique, 1951).
PARIS, A COMMERCIAL CROSSROAD
A VIEW OF PARIS WITH ILE DE LA CITE Jean-Baptiste Raguenet, 1763 - Getty Museum, Los Angeles
THE TIP OF ILE DE LA CITE, FROM THE SAINT NICOLAS PORT Alexandre Jean Noel, ca. 1780 - Carnavalet Museum, Paris
THE WINE MARKET AT JUSSIEU (LA HALLE AUX VINS A JUSSIEU) Paul Cézanne, 1872 - Portland Art Museum, OR, United States, / 12
SEINE RIVER AT BERCY Albert Dubois-Pillet, 1885 - Calvet Museum, Avignon, France
AT THE QUAI DE BERCY Emile Cagniart, 1895 - Carnavalet Museum, Paris
THE RIVER SEINE AT SULLY BRIDGE, THE WINE PORT, THE ST BERNARD QUAY Stanislas Lépine, ca. 1882/85 - Private collection
NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS (view from Quai de La Tournelle) Siebe ten Cate, 1904
NOTRE-DAME DE PARIS VIEW FROM QUAI DE LA TOURNELLE Albert Lebourg, 1928 - Private collection
ON THE QUAYS OF PARIS, SAINT-NICOLAS PORT Watercolor, Henri Zuber, ca. 1890 - Private collection
> Découvrez les œuvres dans leur entier en cliquant sur les vignettes
3. The Paris wine market, found along the river Seine on the Quai Saint Bernard, has been the domain of the capital’s wine merchants since the mid-17th century. The market was open to all wine merchants, including foreigners, on payment of a fee. Better laid-out and better located on the Seine, the market replaced the nearby Port de la Tournelle, previously the main site of the Paris wine trade. Parisian wine consumption began to rise from the start of the 19th century. In order to deal with this trend, in 1808 city planners decided to build a new wine market, which was finally completed in 1845. However, the building had insufficient storage space and could not cope with the changes brought by the arrival of the railway.
In 1869 the government decided to build new warehouses in Bercy, on the other side of the Seine. In 1905, Parliament obliged large wine merchants to open branches on both the Bercy site and the Paris market. Until the start of the 20th century, the two Parisian warehouses were equally important. However, the Saint Bernard market’s gradual specialisation into fine wines and spirits and the extension of the Bercy site in 1910 meant that the latter soon gained precedence. The traders of the Saint Bernard wine market finally moved off the site in 1964 and their stalls were transferred to Bercy.
THE PORT OF BORDEAUX
PORT OF BORDEAUX FROM 'SALINIERES' (detail) Claude-Joseph Vernet, 1758 - Musée de la Marine, Paris
SECOND VIEW OF THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, SEEN FROM CHATEAU TROMPETTE Joseph Vernet, 1759 - Musée national de la Marine, Paris
VIEW OF THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, 'CHARTRONS' DOCKS, AND BACALAN P. Lacour, 1804/06 - MFA, Bordeaux, France / 3
VIEW OF THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, 'CHARTRONS' DOCKS, AND BACALAN (detail) P. Lacour, 1804/06 - MFA, Bordeaux, France
VIEW OF THE GARONNE RIVER Watercolor and gouache, Louis Garneray, ca. 1821/23 - Archives, Bordeaux
VIEW OF THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, SEEN FROM QUAY RICHELIEU Louis Garneray, ca. 1822/23 - CCIP, Paris
VIEW OF THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, SEEN FROM QUAY LA BASTIDE Oil on canvas, Louis Garneray, ca. 1822/23 - CCIP, Paris
VIEW OF BORDEAUX Anonymous, ca. 1830/60 - Private collection
VIEW OF CHARTRONS' DOCKS Louis Burgade, 1835 - Musée d'Aquitaine, Bordeaux, France
THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, VIEW FROM THE STONE BRIDGE (PONT DE PIERRE) Robert Mols, 1887 - Musee Paul Valery, Sete, France
THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, VIEW FROM THE STONE BRIDGE (PONT DE PIERRE) Detail, Robert Mols, 1887 - Musee Paul Valery, Sete, France
THE PORT OF BORDEAUX, VIEW FROM THE STONE BRIDGE (PONT DE PIERRE) Detail, Robert Mols, 1887 - Musee Paul Valery, Sete, France
PORT OF BORDEAUX, LE PORT, PLACE DES QUINCONCES ON THE LEFT Edme-Emile Laborne, 1871 - Musée national de la Marine, Paris
PORT OF BORDEAUX Edouard Manet, 1871 - Buhrle Fundation, Zurich, Switzerland
THE PORT OF BORDEAUX FROM THE CHARTRONS' DOCKS Eugène Boudin, 1875 - Fine Arts Museum, Reims, France
PORT OF BORDEAUX Eugène Boudin, 1874 - Musée d'Orsay, Paris
BORDEAUX, VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE, WINTER'S DAY Alfred Smith, 1904 -Telfair Academy of Arts, Savannah, GA, United States
PORT OF BORDEAUX, watercolor Andre Lhote, 1912 - Fine Arts Museum, Bordeaux
VIEW OF THE PORT OF BORDEAUX Andre Lote, 1914 - MFA, Bordeaux
MEMPHIS AT DOCK, BORDEAUX G. de Sonneville, 1922 - Musée Georges de Sonneville, Gradignan, France / 20
THE GLORY OF THE PORT OF BORDEAUX (fresco) Camille de Buzon, 1938 - Trade Union Centre, Bordeaux
> Click on the icons for a closer look at the artworks
Bordeaux’s wine story began during the Roman period, with the transport of amphorae down the river from the Gaul of Narbonne*. Situated 100 km from the Atlantic coast, the settlement benefitted from its status as both a river and maritime port (in the same way as Nantes and Porto). To prioritise its own wines over those of its haut-pays** (‘upcountry’) rivals, Bordeaux acted as a handy buffer between neighboring areas and the sea. Gradually, over the course of the 13th and 14th centuries, the city implemented a code of commercial practice – the so-called ‘wine police’ favored local wine over that of its neighbors. This system was tolerated by the English rulers, primarily because it decentralized tax collection; it remained in force after Bordeaux was restored to France in order to quell any uprising from those who may have benefited from the tax system under English rule (source : Hugh Johnson, Story of Wine, Easten Press, CO, 1998).
Although Bordeaux was by no means exclusively a wine port, barrels were to be seen on every quay, regardless of the period. Many painters recorded such scenes.
3. The Chartrons area became famous after the arrival, in the late 17th/early 18th century, of wine merchants from London, Liverpool and Bristol, followed by others from Amsterdam, Germany and Denmark. Unable to lodge in the centre of the city, due to lack of space, these traders set up home on the edge of the city, near the Garonne. The quai des Chartrons and its European trading houses quickly came to symbolise the prosperity of the Atlantic ports. The great wine domains were established during this period. However, if Bordeaux enjoyed remarkable growth at this time, its success was not only due to trade with England and Northern Europe, but also transatlantic exchanges with destinations such as the Caribbean. The enrichment of the urban elite and the push for modernisation combined to make south-western France’s principal city a model of Enlightenment values.
20. The Memphis was a mineral trading vessel, transporting iron. In Bordeaux, this type of boat would often be seen beside the barrel-laden quay.
* The Gaul of Narbonne stretched from Toulouse to Antibes, and from Marseilles to Vienne.
** The wine-growing area upriver from Bordeaux, along the Garonne, is known as haut-pays (‘upcountry’). Recognized as wines of quality, they served to color those of Bordeaux. The area became known for this. The wines were named after the port from which they were sent (Bergerac, Cahors, Moissac…) or after the producer (wines sent from the port of Rabastens were known as Gaillac because they came from the Abby of Saint-Michel de Gaillac).
FROM CELLAR TO PORT IN MEDIEVAL ILLUMINATIONS
MONK IN CHARGE OF THE WINE CELLAR Livre de Santé d'Aldebrandino de Sienne, XIVe - British Library, London Livre de Santé d'Aldebrandino de Sienne, XIVe - BL, Londres
TOPPING UP Redevancier de St Germain des Pres, ca. 1530 - Centre historique des Archives Nationales, Paris
PURCHASER FOR GRAIN AND WINE National Library of the Netherlands, The Hague
THE WINE MARKET AT BRUGES Flemish Calendar, October, ca. 1530 - Munich
> Click on the icons for a closer look at the artworks
A pictorial technique similar to that of frescoes or miniatures, illuminations were very popular during the Middle Ages. Done by hand, illuminations decorated or illustrated texts, usually on handwritten manuscripts.
Until the 12th century, manuscripts were copied out in religious settings, such as abbeys, where they were used to support prayer and meditation. From the 13th century, private artisans began to produce literature for the secular market. This was due to the greater literacy that had resulted from the growing university and administrative sectors.
Find out more: Wine in Illuminations, From Vineyard to Port >>
WINE AND THE ARTS: GRAPHICS, 18TH AND 19TH CENTURY ETCHINGS
In front of Chateau Trompette After Nicolas Ozanne, 1776 - City Archives, Bordeaux, France
Abundance, Bacchus and Ceres entering the Capital Carnavalet Museum, Paris
View on St Bernard Port, from Austerlitz Bridge Dubois
View of Saumur, 1836
> Click on the icons for a closer look at the artworks
The ‘Muses’ companion’, wine is present across the artistic spectrum, be it in literature, music, decorative or fine arts. Wine is an essential witness to our social and cultural history. Although the Virtual Wine Museum is mainly concerned with painting at present, some examples drawn from other artistic formats permit us to illustrate the universal role of wine, to ‘bear witness’ to it.
A few examples on the same theme: 1) Port of Bordeaux (Le Port de Bordeaux, vu devant le Château Trompette sur la Garonne et vu du quai des Farines), shows a view of the port at the time of La Fayette. A barge in the foreground permits the transport of barrels. The embarkations allow goods to be carried between the sloping quay and the large ships. The engraving, illustrating an everyday scene from 1776, is highly evocative. 2) Abolition of fees for Entrance (L'Abondance, Bacchus et Cérès entrant dans la capitale), Musée Carnavalet, celebrates the 1791 scrapping of duty on goods entering Paris. Ceres is the goddess of agriculture and the harvest. 3) There has been a wine market on the Quai Saint Bernard since 1662. With wine consumption continuing to rise in the capital, in 1808 it was decided that a larger and more modern market should be built. 4) After having proven itself in mines and industry, steam power was used on boats from 1818, and on the railways a little later. The first steam-powered vessel would sail through Saumur in 1823. In this 1836 Vue de Saumur, steamboat and barges (one full of barrels) are shown side by side.
GALLERIES FROM VINEYARD TO PORT
> Wine and Painting > From Vineyard to Port > From Cellar to Port